Over the last year I’ve shared a few ways to create a passive income.  But what about creating passive savings?  That is, ways to save money without much effort.  That’s the idea behind eliminating the pull of dreaded “vampire power” from your household devices.

What Is “Vampire Power?”

The term “Vampire Power” refers to the energy required to power many home electronic devices as long as they are plugged in, even if they are turned “off.”  Unfortunately, that includes just about everything that requires being plugged in.  Here are a few examples of household appliances draining your wallet while you sleep:

• Cable Box
• DVD Player
• Desktop Computer
• Wireless Router
• Computer Speakers
• Inkjet Printers
• Plasma Televisions (these guys seem to be the worst, according The Department of Energy)

How to Stop Vampire Power?

The silver bullet required to kill vampire power is a smart power strip.  These devices monitor electronic appliances and cut power to them when they entire vampire mode.  Or, you can go old school and simply plug all appliances into a simple power strip or surge protector and flip it off when not in use.  Even older school requires you to simply unplug appliances from the wall outlet when not in use.

One drawback to this method is that devices that need to be on for automation or downloading updates (such as a DVR, router, etc.) may not work properly if manually powered down.  Smart strips offer a solution to this problem by setting aside a couple outlets dedicated to an “always on” setting for devices that do need a constant supply or power.

If you don’t want to run every electronic device through a smart power strip, consider picking up an electricity usage monitor such as the Kill-A-Watt EZ. Here’s a portion of the product description from Amazon.com:

Now you can cut your energy costs and find out what appliances are actually worth keeping plugged in. Simply connect these appliances to the Kill A Watt EZ, and it will assess how efficient they really are. Large LCD display will count consumption by the Kilowatt-hour, same as your local utility. Calculate your cumulative electrical expenses and forecast by the day, week, month, even an entire year.

A friend of mine owns one of these and used it to do a power inventory around his house to find the worst culprits pulling “vampire power.” Then he picked up a few smart power strips and placed them around the outlets with devices pulling the most power.  The reduced energy costs should easily pay him back for the investment of the monitor and power strips in less than a year.

A couple days ago I performed a highly unscientific poll on the subject of thermostat settings. I asked Twitter followers to share their overnight indoor temperature settings and how cold the outside temperatures were in their neck of the woods. My hypothesis was that people are much more frugal about their temperature settings than we are–and I was right!

Based on the responses received the average thermostat setting was 63 degrees at night, and the average outside temperature was 31 degrees. Several mentioned that they keep their thermostat on 70, or higher, because they have small kids. We are in that category as well.

A few months ago I installed a programmable thermostat. During winter days, particularly when it is mild (above 50 degrees), we set the thermostat to “Off.” However, at night we have it programmed to warm the house to 72 degrees while we go through bath and bedtime routines. Once everyone is hunkered down under blankets, we drop the temperature to 68 degrees overnight, before returning it to 72 about half an hour before we wake up and being our morning routine.

As the kids get older I imagine we will drop this temperature down a bit to shave a little more off or our utility bills. Some of the Twitter responses indicated they set their thermostat as low as 55, and one follower even remarked, “We usually knock our thermostat down to 40 at night (and low was 17). We get under enough covers that I still manage to get hot!” 40 degrees? Yikes!

Tips For Staying Warm

Properly insulate your home. Besides having proper insulation installed in walls and attics, also check out door sweeps and areas around windows. Hold a lit candle in front of doors and windows on a breezy day. If the flame flickers it is a good indication air is seeping in. Replace weatherstripping and sweeps around doors for a better seal, and caulk around window joints.

Double up on the covers. Seems obvious I know. But many people simply sleep under a bedspread or comforter, rather than a blanket made of heavier material. A quality blanket will help insulate you by trapping body heat and allowing you to drop the inside temperature further.

Gather around the fireplace. In the early evenings a fire in the fireplace can replace the need for central heating, assuming everyone gathers in the same room room.

Dress windows to help keep cold air out. We recently hung curtains in one of our bedrooms and felt a noticeable difference. The room felt less drafty at night, and during the day we pull back the curtains to let sunlight warm the room naturally.

Also check out: 29 more tips for preparing your house for winter

I recently teamed up with The Home Depot to help provide expert advice to readers on a variety of household projects focused on saving money.  The format will be a post on a particular subject, and then a follow up post from experts at The Home Depot with answers to your questions left in the comments.  In this case, master trade electrician specialists are ready to answer your questions on holiday lighting issues.

Did you know that last year, The Home Depot alone sold more than 40,000 miles of light sets - enough to circle the globe 1.5 times – and the demand continues to rise.

Lighting consumes up to 34 percent of electricity in the United States, and with the addition of Christmas lights and décor, electricity costs will be even higher.  Here are some tips and quick facts, recommended by The Home Depot, to help lower your holiday lighting costs this season:

1.  Christmas lights made with light-emitting diodes, or LEDs, are up to 80 percent more efficient than traditional incandescent lights.

2.  LED lights last up to 10 times longer than incandescent Christmas lights; LEDs burn for 20,000 hours, while incandescents burn for about 3,000 hours

3.  LEDs do not produce the level of heat that incandescents create, significantly decreasing the risk that your tree will catch on fire

4.  Trees lit with LED lights will last longer because the lights won’t dry out the tree

5.  The ability to connect up to 80 strands of LED lights requires fewer power outlets and eases the stress of decorating

6.  If you’re sticking with traditional lights, instead of switching to LED bulbs, switch from large bulbs to miniatures. They’re 70 percent more energy-efficient.

7.  Set the lights on a timer to turn them off when you go to bed. No need to burn your lights overnight when few people will see them.

This year, The Home Depot has introduced a variety of exclusive LED yard décor in its stores nationwide and has increased its energy-efficient and eco-friendly lighting selection by 50 percent for the holiday season.

For more information on energy-efficient products or projects for the holidays, please visit www.homedepot.com.

If you have questions about LED Christmas lights and decorations, or any other lighting issue, please feel free to leave your questions in the comments. 

photo courtesy of laff4k

You’ve all heard the predictions about home heating costs going up this winter. Combined with the current state of our economy, the idea of paying more to heat your home might be enough to send some people over the edge. As a result, people are looking into alternative home heating solutions like space heaters, pellet stoves and yes – fireplaces. Not only can many of the home heating options available today save you money, but many of them are significantly better for the environment. Gel fuel fireplaces are one area of the market that has been growing in recently months, and for good reason! Let me break down some of the benefits to using gel fireplaces to heat your home this winter.

• Save Money Up-front: Not only are most gel fuel fireplaces inexpensive to purchase, but they are also extremely easy to maintain, which translates into less money spent on repairs. Gel fireplaces are perfect if your home isn’t already equipped with a traditional fire place, or if you are looking for a much less expensive, lower maintenance home heating option. Free-standing gel fireplaces are also super easy to install yourself, with most taking no more than an hour or so. While you can purchase a recessed gel fuel fireplace insert to replace an existing fireplace, these free standing units are just as attractive and a lot easier to deal with.

• Breathe Easier: Not only are gel fuel fireplaces easy to install and maintain, but they are vent-less and do not emit smoke, toxic fumes or odor. Highly heat and energy-efficient, gel fuel fireplaces comply with all of the industry’s safety standards; gel fuel itself is a cleaner burning fuel than traditional wood and gas stoves. Gelled alcohol fuel burns clear, smoke-free and a can last anywhere from 2.5 to 3 hours. And for added peace of mind, gel fireplaces are free of the dangers of harmful combustion of toxic products.

• Stay Cozy and Warm: A majority of gel fireplaces produce an average heat output of about 3,000 BTU (British Thermal Units) which is actually comparable to many electric fireplaces on the market, perfect for heating a modestly sized room.

• Complement your Home Decor: Available in a variety of finishes and styles, gel fuel fireplaces can blend in with any home decor. From modern to traditional, black, white or natural hardwood – you’re sure to find the gel fireplace that suits your style.  For even more versatility, opt for a portable fireplace.

• Alternatives to Gel Fuel Fireplaces: As far as frugal home-heating options go, gel fuel fireplaces aren’t an end-all-be-all. Another viable option for you to consider is a pellet stove. If you’re dead set on having some kind of a fireplace, there are some recessed pellet fireplace inserts available, however pellet stoves are more commonly used. Instead of using gel fuel, gas or wood – pellet stoves burn pellets made from recycled sawdust, wood chips, bark, agricultural crop waste, recycled paper or other organic materials. Pellet stoves have a much higher combustion rate than wood stoves or gas fireplaces and are the cleanest of all solid fuel-burning heating appliances. Most pellet stoves have an average heat output of between 8,000 to 90,000 BTUs and are suitable for homes, apartments and condos. Unlike gel fuel fireplaces, however, most pellet stoves require electricity to power several internal fans. Pellet stoves may also cost more for you to in maintenance and repairs.

However you decide to heat your home this winter, just make sure that you read all of the installation instructions carefully and try and purchase a product with a good warranty. The last thing you want is to be stuck without heat when it’s cold outside!

Photo courtesy of CSN Fireplaces

A recent Auburn University study provides some real numbers to back a theory we’ve all known was true for some time–planting a shade tree near your home reduces energy bills significantly in the spring and summer months.  The study, conducted in Auburn, Alabama, included 160 homes with different levels of shade. Each home’s energy usage was monitored and compared to other houses with similar energy-using patterns, size, type of cooling system, etc.  Here are some highlights from the study:

• Houses with trees on the west side of their home had a “much lower power bill”
• Older homes had the most shade coverage, because people did not use to rely on air conditioning as much to keep them cool
• For each degree you raise your thermostat in the summertime you can save 3.3% on energy costs
• Children under age 12 consume the most power in a home as they watch television, play games and frequently leave lights on.  (I could have told them this one!).

Fall and early winter are the perfect seasons to plant a tree.  This time of year many nurseries are trying to reduce their inventory of trees heading into the winter, so you may find a deal on trees to plant around your lot.  The ideal tree to plant on the west side of your home is one that has heavy foliage in the summer, but loses most of its leaves during the winter to allow sunlight to shine through and warm your home naturally.

While you have the shovel out, consider planting a tree near your outside air conditioning unit. The shade will keep the unit cooler and help it operate more efficiently.  Be sure to plant far enough from the unit to allow proper airflow, and account for the tree’s growth over time.

In my town real estate developers plow trees down when planning neighborhoods.  It literally hurts to watch the trees being knocked over because they could provide much needed shade to new homeowners, reducing their electric bill and the amount of energy they consume. Hopefully this study, and more like it in the future, will encourage developers and builders to plan around trees as much as possible to offer homeowners a shaded lot.

Photo courtesy of alykat

I’ve always wanted to install a programmable thermostat, but have been a little intimidated by the thought of any DIY project that involves wires.  What can I say, I’m a chicken when it comes to anything electrical, and usually resort to searching Angie’s List for a reputable electrician.  After reading a few “How-to” articles online I summoned the courage to check out a few models of thermostats.  I found that like most everything electronic, there is a range of options to choose from ultra-cheap to over-the-top expensive.

Our old, original thermostat

We settled on a medium-grade model, not the cheapest, but not the most expensive, either. It was a 5-1-1 GE Honeywell programmable thermostat (the 5-1-1 means you can set a weekday schedule and a Saturday/Sunday schedule, independently).  This feature appealed to us because our weekday schedule varies from our weekend schedule, as I suspect is true in most households.  With new thermostat in hand, I’m ready to tackle the installation.

Disclaimer:  The following instructions are for inspirational purposes only, and are not meant to substitute manufacturer instructions that come with your particular model.

Step 1 – Turn off all power at main electrical panel.   Some instructions I found online advised to simply turn off power to the room your were working, others suggested throwing the main switch.  I always lean towards safety and decided to turn everything I could find on the electrical panel to the “Off” position.

Our old thermostat, minus cover and control board

Step 2 -  Remove cover and control panel from old thermostat.  The cover and control board on most models snap off–look for a recessed lip around the sides or bottom of the original thermostat where you can grab and remove the faceplate and control board.  Take care setting this aside as you may have to reinstall if something goes wrong further in the installation.

Step 3 – Label wires according to their current position, and remove them one by one.  Most new models of programmable thermostats come with sticker labels that you can use to wrap around the wires coming from the wall.  If your package doesn’t contain pre-printed labels you can substitute with masking tape and a Sharpie.

Step 4- Remove old thermostat plate from the wall.  Be sure not to let the mess of wires drop back into the wall when unscrewing the old plate.  Some instructions recommend taping a group of wires to the wall, but I found that the wires were so stiff that simply spreading them out a bit adequately prevented them from dropping back into the hole in the drywall.

It’s a good idea to use a level–I did when drilling, but not when taking the photos!

Step 5 – Attach new thermostat plate to the wall.  Most of the time a new model’s plate will not match up to the existing holes from the old thermostat.  This was the case with our model.  I simply drilled a couple holes for the new thermostat, and inserted the drywall anchors that came in the new packaging (don’t worry, the instructions accounted for this by indicating the drill bit size to use, etc.).  Go ahead and insert batteries if your model requires them.  Our model required two AA batteries (installed just above the wire connections) to hold the programming settings in the event of a power outage.

Step 6 – Reattach the wires according to their label and the corresponding spot on the new thermostat.   This was the most difficult part of the entire project because there wasn’t much room to work with, and depending on your heating/air conditioning system you could have several wires to attach.  We finally managed to get them all attached and were ready for the final installation step.

Step 7 – Attach control panel and face plate for new thermostat*.  This step reminded me of attaching an old parallel printer to a computer–simply match up the pins on the control panel with the pins on the back plate attached to the wall.

*Hint:  Make a handwritten note of the wires you attached (C, G, Y, R, etc.) before covering with the new control panel and face plate.  You’ll need to know this to properly program your new thermostat based on the type of system your have.  I didn’t know this ahead of time, and had to remove the faceplate to remember the letter designations I had attached.

You can see it got a little warm in the house with the power off!

Step 9 – Turn power back on and program new thermostat according to manufacturer instructions. We ran through the programming setting for weekdays, and then Saturday and Sunday.  In the summer time we let the temp get a little higher at night and sleep with ceiling fans running.  Before we wake up the thermostat is programmed to cool things down for getting ready for work and school, and then returns to a higher temperature for the day.  In the winter, we’ll reverse this process by letting things cool down after we are tucked away in bed, and warm things up during the early morning hours.

I haven’t received my power bill yet, so I can’t report on the savings (but I will in a future post). I imagine the long periods at night, and during the day, with increased temperatures will help reduce our power bill during these dog days of summer.

Still need help? Search Angie’s List for a recommended electrician in your area.

Relieve yourself from the cost and hassle of home repairs with a home warranty from American Home Shield.

The mercury will soon be hitting 100 degrees down South, and that means it is time to prepare your home for summer temperatures. During the summer months our power bill is frequently more than our car payment, which can really wreck an otherwise meticulous monthly budget.

Tips For Preparing Your Home For Summer

Change your ceiling fan’s direction. Ceiling fans require some maintenance after winter usage. I know, it seems counterintuitive to use a ceiling fan during the winter, but by running fans on low and changing the blade direction to blow air up you will create a slight updraft and constantly recycle warm air back into the room. The opposite is true in the summer, when airflow should be sent down to produce a wind-chill effect (make the room occupants feel cooler). Most fan models have a switch above the light fixture to change blade directions. A good rule of thumb is to run your ceiling fan counter-clockwise in the summer and clockwise in the winter.

Curtains and blinds. In warmer temperatures, close the curtains and blinds in the heat of the day. Room-darkening curtains may be hung in bedrooms not used during the day to block out sunlight. This is especially important for rooms facing West and exposed to the heat of the afternoon sun.

Consider installing an attic fan or vent. If you have ever been in an attic in the hottest part of summer you already know what a hot box they become. I remember laying some plywood in our attic early one summer to make some storage space and I just about passed out. Consider installing a vent to pull that hot air off your ceiling.

Plant a shade tree next to your outside air condition unit. Providing some shade over your air conditioner’s outside unit can help it run more efficiently.

Inspect dryer vents. Clogged dryer vents cause warm air to blow back in to the room where your dryer is located, eventually raising the temperature in the whole house.

Check the insulation around doors and windows. Our dog has a habit of scratching at our back door when she wants to be let in. Sounds harmless enough, but considering she weighs nearly 100 pounds it tends to take a toll on the insulating strip next to the door. I make it a point to replace this strip each summer and winter before extreme temperatures cause air to sneak in around the door.

Switch to compact fluorescent (CFL) bulbs. This is a standard tip on any energy saving list, but it is important for reasons other than direct kilowatt savings. Compact fluorescent bulbs give off less heat than regular incandescent bulbs. CFL bulbs will cause less impact on the temperature of the room.

Run the bathroom exhaust fan during showers. During the summer, an air conditioner’s primary purpose is to replace warm, moist air with cool, dry air. A long, steamy shower can create muggy conditions in your bathroom that spills out into adjacent rooms and hallways when you open the bathroom door.

Replace air conditioner filters regularly. Most filters suggest a 90 day useful life. If you live in a dusty area, or your family suffers from allergies you may want to replace filters more frequently – like maybe every 60 days. Blocked air filters create a drag on the efficiency of your air conditioning system’s ability to push and pull air through air registers.

Consider baking dishes in the morning when outside temperatures are low. You can always reheat them in the evening using a microwave, which gives off very little heat compared to a traditional over. If your power company charges an hourly rate for kilowatt use you may also enjoy some savings by not using appliances during peak times (traditionally mid to late afternoon).

Use a drying rack for heavy clothes such as jeans and towels. My wife and I bought a drying rack to hang jeans and towels right out of the washing machine. We let them air dry for a while, and then throw them in the dryer for a few minutes with a Bounce sheet to soften them up and remove wrinkles.