I’ve always wanted to install a programmable thermostat, but have been a little intimidated by the thought of any DIY project that involves wires.  What can I say, I’m a chicken when it comes to anything electrical, and usually resort to searching Angie’s List for a reputable electrician.  After reading a few “How-to” articles online I summoned the courage to check out a few models of thermostats.  I found that like most everything electronic, there is a range of options to choose from ultra-cheap to over-the-top expensive.

Our old, original thermostat

We settled on a medium-grade model, not the cheapest, but not the most expensive, either. It was a 5-1-1 GE Honeywell programmable thermostat (the 5-1-1 means you can set a weekday schedule and a Saturday/Sunday schedule, independently).  This feature appealed to us because our weekday schedule varies from our weekend schedule, as I suspect is true in most households.  With new thermostat in hand, I’m ready to tackle the installation.

Disclaimer:  The following instructions are for inspirational purposes only, and are not meant to substitute manufacturer instructions that come with your particular model.

Step 1 – Turn off all power at main electrical panel.   Some instructions I found online advised to simply turn off power to the room your were working, others suggested throwing the main switch.  I always lean towards safety and decided to turn everything I could find on the electrical panel to the “Off” position.

Our old thermostat, minus cover and control board

Step 2 -  Remove cover and control panel from old thermostat.  The cover and control board on most models snap off–look for a recessed lip around the sides or bottom of the original thermostat where you can grab and remove the faceplate and control board.  Take care setting this aside as you may have to reinstall if something goes wrong further in the installation.

Step 3 – Label wires according to their current position, and remove them one by one.  Most new models of programmable thermostats come with sticker labels that you can use to wrap around the wires coming from the wall.  If your package doesn’t contain pre-printed labels you can substitute with masking tape and a Sharpie.

Step 4- Remove old thermostat plate from the wall.  Be sure not to let the mess of wires drop back into the wall when unscrewing the old plate.  Some instructions recommend taping a group of wires to the wall, but I found that the wires were so stiff that simply spreading them out a bit adequately prevented them from dropping back into the hole in the drywall.

It’s a good idea to use a level–I did when drilling, but not when taking the photos!

Step 5 – Attach new thermostat plate to the wall.  Most of the time a new model’s plate will not match up to the existing holes from the old thermostat.  This was the case with our model.  I simply drilled a couple holes for the new thermostat, and inserted the drywall anchors that came in the new packaging (don’t worry, the instructions accounted for this by indicating the drill bit size to use, etc.).  Go ahead and insert batteries if your model requires them.  Our model required two AA batteries (installed just above the wire connections) to hold the programming settings in the event of a power outage.

Step 6 – Reattach the wires according to their label and the corresponding spot on the new thermostat.   This was the most difficult part of the entire project because there wasn’t much room to work with, and depending on your heating/air conditioning system you could have several wires to attach.  We finally managed to get them all attached and were ready for the final installation step.

Step 7 – Attach control panel and face plate for new thermostat*.  This step reminded me of attaching an old parallel printer to a computer–simply match up the pins on the control panel with the pins on the back plate attached to the wall.

*Hint:  Make a handwritten note of the wires you attached (C, G, Y, R, etc.) before covering with the new control panel and face plate.  You’ll need to know this to properly program your new thermostat based on the type of system your have.  I didn’t know this ahead of time, and had to remove the faceplate to remember the letter designations I had attached.

You can see it got a little warm in the house with the power off!

Step 9 – Turn power back on and program new thermostat according to manufacturer instructions. We ran through the programming setting for weekdays, and then Saturday and Sunday.  In the summer time we let the temp get a little higher at night and sleep with ceiling fans running.  Before we wake up the thermostat is programmed to cool things down for getting ready for work and school, and then returns to a higher temperature for the day.  In the winter, we’ll reverse this process by letting things cool down after we are tucked away in bed, and warm things up during the early morning hours.

I haven’t received my power bill yet, so I can’t report on the savings (but I will in a future post). I imagine the long periods at night, and during the day, with increased temperatures will help reduce our power bill during these dog days of summer.

Still need help? Search Angie’s List for a recommended electrician in your area.

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The mercury will soon be hitting 100 degrees down South, and that means it is time to prepare your home for summer temperatures. During the summer months our power bill is frequently more than our car payment, which can really wreck an otherwise meticulous monthly budget.

Tips For Preparing Your Home For Summer

Change your ceiling fan’s direction. Ceiling fans require some maintenance after winter usage. I know, it seems counterintuitive to use a ceiling fan during the winter, but by running fans on low and changing the blade direction to blow air up you will create a slight updraft and constantly recycle warm air back into the room. The opposite is true in the summer, when airflow should be sent down to produce a wind-chill effect (make the room occupants feel cooler). Most fan models have a switch above the light fixture to change blade directions. A good rule of thumb is to run your ceiling fan counter-clockwise in the summer and clockwise in the winter.

Curtains and blinds. In warmer temperatures, close the curtains and blinds in the heat of the day. Room-darkening curtains may be hung in bedrooms not used during the day to block out sunlight. This is especially important for rooms facing West and exposed to the heat of the afternoon sun.

Consider installing an attic fan or vent. If you have ever been in an attic in the hottest part of summer you already know what a hot box they become. I remember laying some plywood in our attic early one summer to make some storage space and I just about passed out. Consider installing a vent to pull that hot air off your ceiling.

Plant a shade tree next to your outside air condition unit. Providing some shade over your air conditioner’s outside unit can help it run more efficiently.

Inspect dryer vents. Clogged dryer vents cause warm air to blow back in to the room where your dryer is located, eventually raising the temperature in the whole house.

Check the insulation around doors and windows. Our dog has a habit of scratching at our back door when she wants to be let in. Sounds harmless enough, but considering she weighs nearly 100 pounds it tends to take a toll on the insulating strip next to the door. I make it a point to replace this strip each summer and winter before extreme temperatures cause air to sneak in around the door.

Switch to compact fluorescent (CFL) bulbs. This is a standard tip on any energy saving list, but it is important for reasons other than direct kilowatt savings. Compact fluorescent bulbs give off less heat than regular incandescent bulbs. CFL bulbs will cause less impact on the temperature of the room.

Run the bathroom exhaust fan during showers. During the summer, an air conditioner’s primary purpose is to replace warm, moist air with cool, dry air. A long, steamy shower can create muggy conditions in your bathroom that spills out into adjacent rooms and hallways when you open the bathroom door.

Replace air conditioner filters regularly. Most filters suggest a 90 day useful life. If you live in a dusty area, or your family suffers from allergies you may want to replace filters more frequently – like maybe every 60 days. Blocked air filters create a drag on the efficiency of your air conditioning system’s ability to push and pull air through air registers.

Consider baking dishes in the morning when outside temperatures are low. You can always reheat them in the evening using a microwave, which gives off very little heat compared to a traditional over. If your power company charges an hourly rate for kilowatt use you may also enjoy some savings by not using appliances during peak times (traditionally mid to late afternoon).

Use a drying rack for heavy clothes such as jeans and towels. My wife and I bought a drying rack to hang jeans and towels right out of the washing machine. We let them air dry for a while, and then throw them in the dryer for a few minutes with a Bounce sheet to soften them up and remove wrinkles.